Today on the blog, we feature craft revivalist and jewelry artist Gina Joseph  and founder of Zola India, a jewelry label based in Chennai. Her story…  

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I did my graduation in Visual Communication 10 years ago from Loyola in Chennai. I started off my career in advertising and then I was a journalist for about 5 years and then was part of the corporate world for 2 years and always been an appreciator of art. I did not have any specific training in jewellery design; it was more of a hidden passion that surfaced at the right time in my life. I think the literature is very important when you venture into anything creative. 

I took a break from work and did an Arts Management program from Dakshinachitra in Chennai; before that I had a peripheral knowledge about art. I appreciated art but did not the fine details about a painting or sculpture.

If not for what I had been exposed to in my Indian art, western art, temple architecture and cultural studies classes I wouldn’t have been able to start Zola India and make it what it is today. I read as much as I can about everything and anything and I get my inspiration from many places and people. Conversations inspire me. 

What sparked your passion for jewelry?

I’ve always being an appreciator of art and do not have any specific training in jewellery design; it was more of a hidden passion that surfaced at the right time in my life. I think the literature is very important when you venture into anything creative and I was introduced to the world of art appreciation and history when I took a break from work and did an Arts Management program from Dakshinachitra in Chennai. So, while doing this program, as part of my Indian art project I created my first three pieces of jewellery. I was very fascinated by the temple women in Indian sculpture, that is the salabanjikas (tree huggers), madanikas and yakshis (goddesses of fertility) so I got them carved in wood and put it together with semi precious stones. The concept was ‘to wear a piece of history on you’. 

My “aha” moment so to say happened quite by chance four year ago, when I went to the Crafts Council Of India (CCI) office to meet the chairperson, Gita Ram to discuss about something totally different, not related jewellery design. I happened to be wearing one of the necklaces that I had designed for my project which she liked very much. While I was there, she got a call from an international designer who was to go to Bhubaneshwar in the next 2 weeks and conduct a Dhokra design workshop with some of the rural artisans. The designer cancelled last minute, so Gita looked at me and said “why don’t you go and conduct the workshop.” I had no prior experience in designing jewellery or anything for that matter, but she said “just go, let’s see what comes out of it, I think you can do a good job.” And It was this trust of hers in me and my work that was the stepping stone for Zola India.

When I reached Bhubaneshwar, I was really nervous initially and not knowing the language didn’t help either, but once I was right there working with the 10 women artisans, things just flowed naturally and we created about 70 new designs of earrings, necklaces, chokers and anklets in those 5 days. That’s when I realized that this is what I was meant to do as no other job in the past gave me so much satisfaction and fulfilment before.

When did you begin Zola India and how has it evolved?

I started up about four years ago, my first exhibition was in Chennai! Zola, in Italian means a piece of earth.  As the name goes, Zola India draws from the colours and textures from elements of the earth.

Over the years, Zola India has conducted 16 Design workshops with over 200 artisans across rural India and worked with nine crafts of India across six states. We have worked with Dhokra and Pattachitra from Orissa, Toda embroidery from Tamilnadu, Wall Mural art and Aranmula mirror from Kerala, Leather puppetry and Lac Turnery from Andhra Pradesh, Bidri from Karnataka and Bead embroidery from Gujarat.

Why is making so important to you? 

It’s been four years since I started Zola India and the stories or crafts and my artisans are intertwined in each piece you wear. Sometime back one of my artisan told me that he could now afford better education for his two children and also improve his standard of living significantly after he started working with me. Another artisan from Andhra said he has started paying part of his house loan from the earnings of Zola India. In Orissa the women artisans I work with have promised to continue sending their daughters to school as a part of the income goes towards the girl child’s education. 

It gives me a lot of happiness and a sense of fulfilment when I hear about the little changes Zola India has brought in their lives. These are just small drops in the mighty ocean and Zola India has a long way to go and along the way hope to change many many more lives. 

What do you wish more shoppers knew about your jewelry?

That at Zola India we do not make machine made fast fashion jewellery. We work only with pure metals like copper, brass, silver. All the materials used are authentic to the geographies, and each piece takes anything between 2-7 days to make. Handcrafted makes every piece unique and beautiful, just like the woman who wears it .

What is currently working on? 

Our most recent collection is the intricate bead embroidery that’s inspired by geometric, flora and fauna motifs of Gujrat’s Hindu, Islamic and Persian architecture. This beaded collection is an ode to the historical grandeur of this state’s handcrafted treasures. 

From the sketching the design on a graph to counting each bead according to the design and finally embroidering the pattern on one side of the cloth, it takes between 3-5 days to complete a necklace or earring. With each passing day the design comes alive… like a painting on canvas.

What is your personal favorite pick from Zola India right now? And why?

I love all my collections equally. Each of the pieces are hand crafted/ painted and have a story which is rich in the cultural history of my country, India.

But the most interesting process was that of the Bidri collection, from making the mould to finally The most interesting and almost magical stage of this craft is the grand finale, the blackening process. For this a special variety of soil which is available only in the unlit portions of the Bidar Fort is used. It is said that the soil of the Bidar Fort is very special. Some artisans feel that the soil is away from the sunlight and rain for years and therefore it has great oxidizing properties. Another interesting fact is that the quality of the soil is tested, by tasting it.

What are your displaying at the By Hand, From The Heart.

All our collections will be on display, namely Dhokra, Pattachitra, Kerala Mural, Leather Puppetry, Toda, Bidri and the latest Bead embroidery. With each piece you wear a piece of history, culture and the innumerable stories of the artisans who create our jewelry. You wear a piece of earth. 

Meet the Maker @
25th edition:  By Hand From The Heart Makers Market
8 – 9 – February 2019 | Friday – Saturday | 10 a.m – 9 p.m
Crowne Plaza Chennai Adyar Park, (old Adyar Gate Hotel)
132, T.T.K Road, Alwarpet, Chennai – 600018, India.

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